Monthly Archives: November 2017

How to Enjoy a Living Christmas Tree

When considering the price of trees these days, it makes sense to buy one that offers the biggest return on investment. That’s why I’m a big fan of living Christmas trees.

A living tree is one that makes the season bright, but also adds beauty to the landscape long after the holiday is over.

Before investing in a living Christmas tree, there are a few things to keep in mind about its care:

1. Buy a tree that fits both inside and outside the house. A smaller tree will be more manageable for moving into the house for the celebration and then outside for planting. In addition, smaller sized trees will take less time to get established in the yard after planting.

2. Select the planting site and prepare a planting hole for the tree before the ground freezes. Dig a saucer-shaped hole that’s at least three times the size of the root ball. The hole should be shallow (no deeper than the root ball) and wide. Planting too deep slows root growth and can harm the tree. Be sure to reserve the soil to fill in the hole at planting time.

3. Locate a cool spot to store the tree after getting it home. Keep it in its original container in the garage or on a sheltered porch or patio until it’s time to move it indoors.

4. Unlike a cut tree, a living Christmas tree can be indoors for just a short amount of time. Plan ahead to move the tree indoors for 5-7 days around the holiday. Then move it back to the garage.

5. Place the tree in the coolest room in the house. Avoid placing it close to the fireplace and keep it away from furnace vents that cause hot-cold temperature swings.

6. Water wisely to keep the soil moist. One easy method for watering is to put the tree’s container in a larger container, like a metal tub. Elevate the tree off the bottom of the container with a layer of gravel to keep roots away from sitting water.

7. After the holiday is over, allow time for the tree to get re-acclimated to the outdoors before planting. Place it back in the garage or cool, sheltered spot for a few days. Then take it outside and plant.

CSU Extension gives all the best practices for tree planting in the Garden Notes called The Science of Planting Trees. Be sure to remove any burlap or wire baskets before backfilling the hole and watering in the tree.

Keep your new tree watered through the winter, at least once a month or more frequently if the weather is dry and warm with a lack of snow cover.

A living Christmas tree may need a little extra TLC, but it’s one of the best ways to keep the holiday spirit alive throughout the year.

By Jodi Torpey
Denver Master Gardener since 2005

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Shedding Light on Houseplants

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Daylight saving time is on hiatus, the gardening season has drawn to a close and  the long shadows of winter will soon be here.  It seems like a good time to turn our attention to the light needs of indoor plants.

Most indoor plants hail from the tropics, making their ideal growing conditions far different from what we offer in our typical homes. Thin new leaves, loss of lots of older foliage and limbs stretching towards a window can all be signs that your plant is craving more light. Without adequate light plants are unable to store energy for growth.

Indoor light is more subtle than the light in our gardens, which can make it trickier to assess. For more precision, a photographer’s light meter or a simple light meter app on your phone will measure the light in foot-candles or LUX units. Horticulturists use foot-candles, so if you have a device which gives a LUX reading, search the web for an easy LUX to foot-candle calculator.

In general, growers characterize plants as needing high, medium or low light.  Here are some guidelines to help assess the type of light in your environment with greater accuracy.

High Intensity Light

  • 1,000+ foot-candles
  • 4-6 hours of sun per day
  • Crisp shadows and dark contrast at the brightest time of day
  • Within 2’ of east facing windows
  • Within 2’ of south-facing windows (October-March)

Medium Intensity Light

  • 500+-1,000 foot-candles
  • Within 2’ of north facing windows (April-September)
  • 2-6’ from an east or west-facing window
  • 1’ to the side of an east or west-facing window
  • Approximately 10-14 hours per day of fluorescent office light

Low Intensity Light

  • 50-500 foot-candles
  • Faint shadows at the brightest time of day
  • Within 2’ of north facing windows (October-March)
  • 6-10’ from south-facing windows (April – September)
  • Few plants survive in fewer than 50 candles

Knowing the light intensity will help determine the best placement of  plants and select  plants which will thrive. Variables such as humidity, drafts and temperature also factor into a plant’s health, so be sure to take this into consideration, too.  As always, knowledge and keen observation skills are key to successful plant care.

Additional information on plants and light:

Plantalk 1352: Interior Plants and Light

Plantalk 1314: Houseplants: Artificial Light

Starting Seeds Indoors

Christmas Cactus Care (effects of light on bloom)

 

Written by Linda McDonnell, a Denver County Master Gardener