Colorado Gardening Calendar for September 2023

By Valerie Podmore, CSU Extension-Denver Master Gardener since 2020

Winecups reaching for water. Photo by Valerie Podmore

When I went on my (mostly) daily morning walk (I’m writing this in the 3^rd week of August by the way), the temperature was a lovely mid 70’s and my walking buddy said, “this is a really nice morning, almost like fall.” As we’ve had so many hot, hot July and August days, the thought of experiencing cooler ones is quite appealing! I’m sure our plants will enjoy that as well (not the walking part of course haha). Let’s look at our gardening to-dos for this month.

Vegetable Garden

Ok I admit, my first attempts at veggie gardening are not going great, mostly because I’ve not watered properly, I think. It could also be the location has much more shade than initially imagined. Remember that right plant, right place mantra? I didn’t! In any case, here are some tasks to perform this month for those of you who actually have real vegetables growing.

• Continue to harvest any ripe summer vegetables and clear out fallen leaves, weeds and other disease-causing debris.
• Plant cool weather vegetables now as they mature quickly and love less heat. These include lettuce, kale, arugula, Swiss chard, and spinach. Here’s a timely post on how to extend our growing season.
• Don’t forget to continue watering because we all know that Colorado can throw crazy weather at us…and it follows then to prepare for cold weather snaps too. There’s nothing worse than working so hard to grow something only to have it destroyed by Mother Nature. 

Trees and Shrubs

• Oh that watering thing again. It’s like some sort of Tamagotchi game (showing my age!) to make us desperately try to keep our plants alive! Keep an eye on the weather and water deeply when precipitation has been scarce. This information sheet has EVERYTHING you want to know about water.
• While we can prune, if necessary, try to avoid it during this month. Make note of branches that need attention and save the tasks for late winter or early spring.
• We may not realize it, but September’s cooler temperatures make it a good time to plant trees and shrubs as it gives enough time for the plant to acclimate in the warmer soil and prepare for the winter months. Here’s a great article on this very idea.

Lawn Care 

• This is a great month to revive our lawns by aerating and fertilizing or overseeding bare spots.
• As mentioned above, watering is still important to keep our lawns healthy so let’s continue caring for our lawns as fall is not the time to stop the good lawn care practices we’ve undertaken throughout the year.
• Tired of dealing with lawn? Now’s the time to start to plan a turf conversion. This page offers practical tips.

‘Autumn Joy’ sedum’s dusty pink blooms pop in September and last till frost. Photo by Linda McDonnell

Perennial Flower Beds 

• This is a perfect time to start cleaning up our plants as they begin to go dormant, by clearing away dead and mushy leaves, fruits or weeds which can cause disease.
• This quick read has good advice on clearing up the garden in the fall and pollinator-friendly clean up tips can be found here.
• Divide early blooming perennials such as iris, lily, hostas, bleeding hearts, and other bulb or tuberous species to keep them from crowding each other too much.
• For anyone who has a spare hour and some, and REALLY wants to nerd out on fall plant advice, take a look at this awesome video!

Annual Flower Beds

Because I’m lazy, I prefer perennial plants but of course we can’t minimize the impact that annuals have in the garden. The colors and variety are just so great!

• Make note of those annuals that you will want to replace next year.
• Get your pots of Chrysanthemums or pansies busted out to provide fall color, as these plants prefer cooler weather and add that color we sometimes need to combat that seasonal affective disorder that we have (well I’m speaking for myself here!).

As always, visit the CSU Extension Yard and Garden website for more gardening tips.

CSU Flower Trial Gardens, 1000+ Flower Varieties Trialed for 2023

By Lori Williams, CSU Extension – Denver County Master Gardener since 2016

Have you enjoyed or wondered about CSU’s campus Flower Trial Garden in Fort Collins? It’s a flower-lover’s paradise where 1000+ bountiful and bodacious annual and perennial flowers are performance tested annually. A team of evaluators recently reviewed this year’s entries, and the winners will be announced shortly. These champion flowers will be making an appearance near you soon!

Here is a sample of stand-out flowers from the 2022 trials.

What You’ll Find if You Visit

The Trial Gardens together with University Center for the Arts is called the Garden Arts District. Passersby, astute and curious gardeners, lucky students, staff and faculty enjoy the area routinely. The gardens are open for viewing through October. If you visit, you’ll find:

• Perennial Trial Garden is directly in front of the Center for the Arts building. Handsome perennial container trials stand in impressive rows.
• Perennial Demo Garden on the building’s north side is robust in color and texture.
• Vibrant rows and swaths of annual trials wind around the center park.
• Shade annuals are on trial under the stately, northern Shade House.
• Next to that, the All-America Selections® display and trial ground is showy and full.
• Plant Select’s Demonstration Garden, adjacent to the gazebo, features an outstanding array of plant, butterfly, and bee varieties.

All kinds of garden-y goodness abound at the intersection of College Ave and Lake Street in Fort Collins. Photo Lori Williams

You’ve likely seen a divine flowering something in a public garden that immediately and deeply dives into your heart, and you ask, “What is that?!” only to discover no label or information. CSU has signage noting plant name/species and variety at every planted grouping. It’s a wish-list maker’s dream come true! Obviously and absolutely essential for evaluations and voting.

Exceptional trial flowers with precise plant information posted for accurate voting and fun for Latin tongue twisting, too! Photo: Lori Williams

History, Mission and Trial Criteria

The Flower Trial Garden is a seriously revered testing ground for seed companies, industrial growers, and horticultural researchers. To learn more about the garden’s history, the evaluation process and how trial research and data are used, watch this short video narrated by Dr. Jim Klett, CSU Professor Emeritus.

Colorado State University’s overall mission is simple: to provide education, research and outreach to anyone with a desire to learn. The trial gardens are an exceptional example of the University’s commitment to this mission.

According to CSU, the purpose of displaying and evaluating performance of annual and perennial cultivars in Colorado’s unique environmental conditions “allows students, researchers, industry representatives, homeowners and extension personnel to learn, teach and evaluate through horticultural projects conducted in the unique environmental conditions of the Rocky Mountain/High Plains region.”

Trialing Cultivars: Will You Grow in Colorado?

Approximately 25 different companies submit seeds or rooted-cutting entries annually. Find criteria here.

Colorado industry professionals work with CSU ensuring trials are scientific and participants receive performance results.

Evaluation Day in early August involves Colorado Master Gardeners, community members and horticultural leaders evaluating and creating “Best Of” entries lists.

CSU promotes the “Best Of” varieties to growers and sellers, encouraging them to bring these winners to market.

What Makes a Winner?

Not all flower varieties can withstand Colorado’s unique growing conditions, which include high altitude, intense solar radiation, drying winds, severe hailstorms, large fluctuations between day and night temperatures and a season-long need for irrigation. Plants are closely monitored for their ability to withstand these factors. Perennials are trialed for three summers.

In addition, genetic changes have occurred during trials. With more intense light and weather, sea level-growing, shade-loving New Guinea impatiens were trialed in Fort Collins and genetically became a NEW sun-loving, high altitude, outrageously popular plant! That’s the value of CSU’s trial gardens.

CSU’s efforts, along with help from the Larimer County Master Gardeners, reward Colorado plant enthusiasts with complete findings on trial favorites. Find the last three years “Best Of” Annuals, “Top Performer” Perennials, and “Cool Season” winners here.

Watch for the announcement of the 2023 winners soon!

Mr. Kitty Cat joined me while I perused the Perennial Demo Garden. Photo: Lori Williams

Colorado Gardening Calendar for August 2023

By: Gail Leidigh CSU Extension-Denver Master Gardener since 2021

August is a fabulous month for enjoying your garden. Much of the work from earlier in the season will have paid off at this point. Since August is often hot and dry, it’s important to make sure your garden is getting the right amount of water, and to remain observant for stressed plants. Mark your calendar to get these gardening to-do’s done in your yard and garden.

Also this month and through September 15^th, CSU Extension is accepting applications for the next Colorado Master Gardener class. To learn more about our program, explore the resources at www.ColoradoMasterGardener.org and read Let’s Grow Together: Becoming a Colorado Master Gardener by Felicia Brower.

The vegetable garden at the Denver County Extension office. Photo: Merrill Kingsbury

A Yard and Garden Checklist for August

Vegetable Garden

• As your veggies ripen, harvest them, and if you cannot eat them right away, check out these good ideas to preserve them for later from Master Gardener Lois Margolin.
• How are your tomatoes doing? Growing tomatoes in Colorado can be tricky, with our wide temperature ranges and winds that prevent pollination. Some ideas for helping with your tomato problems can be found in this video on the PlantTalk website.
• Extend your gardening time by planting cool season vegetables such as peas, broccoli, and kale.

Trees and Shrubs

• Pay attention to signs of stress and desiccation in woody plants, and supplement with water as needed.
• Prune back summer blooming shrubs that have finished flowering, and that will bloom next year on this season’s growth. (It’s too late to prune spring blooming shrubs such as forsythia and lilac.)
• Always avoid trimming trees when they are water stressed by hot and dry conditions – they need to conserve all the energy they can this time of year.

Lawn Care

• During periods of high temperatures, a lawn may need as much as 2.5 inches of water or more per week.
• Mid to late August is a good time to over-seed bare spots in the lawn.
• The best defense against weeds in the lawn is thick and healthy grass, and you can encourage this by cutting the grass high – about 2.5 inches or higher.

Photo: Gail Leidigh

Perennial Flower Beds

• Some plants will start going to seed this time of year. If you don’t want the plant to self-seed, seed heads can be cut back. Or leave the seeds for the birds to enjoy.
• Weed ‘em and reap: Continue weeding the yard and gardens now, and reap the rewards later.
• Take note of what worked this year and what did not. Many perennials will be on sale at the end of summer and this fall, and it is a great time to fill in bare spots or replace plants that didn’t make it.

Annual Flower Beds

• Check the soil moisture in pots and hanging baskets frequently, as they will dry out quickly in the summer heat and wind.
• Clear and thin out plants that are fading, and make room for fall annuals that love the heat such as angelonia, ornamental kale, and daisy rudbeckia.
• Dead-head to encourage growth of new blooms.

Enjoy your garden this month!

Celebrating Pollinator Week with Kids

By: Molly Gaines, CSU Extension-Denver Master Gardener since 2019

A Tiger Swallowtail hovers above a zinnia. They collect pollen by brushing their wings across flowers. Photo: Molly Gaines

Summer in Colorado is heading into full bloom, with bees, butterflies, moths, birds, and other pollinators abounding in our backyards and across the Rocky Mountains. At the same time, Pollinator Week, created by Pollinator Partnership to promote the health of pollinators through conservation, education and research, kicks off June 19. This makes it a perfect time to celebrate pollinators with the kids in your life, observing pollinators in action and creatively acknowledging the special roles they play in our environment. 

There are many engaging ways to help kids of all ages learn about pollinators. Some basic facts you can share about pollinators include:

• Pollinator species include bees, beetles, flies, moths, butterflies, hummingbirds, and bats.
• More than 70% of the world’s flowering plants rely on pollination, which is essential for producing fruits and seeds.
• Just like humans and other animals, pollinators need food, water, shelter and space.
• Pollinators are in trouble, and there are some reasons why and ways we all can help.

For a wealth of background and education about pollinators, check out the Pollinator Partnership’s website. It offers planting guides, bee guides, guides to creating a pollinator garden, pesticide education, and much more. 

The following are a few fun ideas to teach the kids in your life more about pollinators, along with a few resources for reference. 

1) Take a walk around your neighborhood. One of my favorite things to do with my own kids is to stroll through our neighborhood observing pollinators in action — a butterfly hovering around milkweed or a bumblebee deep inside a squash flower. It’s delightful to slow down and watch all of the ways pollinators move and work their way through our natural environments. And, if you look closely at a honeybees’ legs, you can see and point out to kids the yellow pollen they’ve collected and are carrying back to their hives. For a list of plants that are native to Colorado that might be found along your stroll, check out this blog post by Denver Master Gardener Kathy Roth.

A honeybee helps this cucumber grow fruit. Photo: Molly Gaines

2) Plant pollinator-friendly plants or a tiny garden to attract them. It’s not too late to find pollinator-friendly flowers at your local nursery and plant them with your kids. Or, you could plan now to plant a fall pollinator garden. Some great ideas for what to plant and background on how pollination happens can be found here. When your garden is complete, have your kids visit www.pollinator.org to download free garden signs. Older kids can help make signs to place in their garden, and perhaps a neighbor’s pollinator-friendly garden, too! 

3) To find an abundance of pollinators in one place, consider a visit to the Denver Botanic Gardens, Chatfield Farms or the Butterfly Pavilion in Westminster, Colorado. The Butterfly Pavilion is hosting a Pollinator Palooza Festival on Sun., June 25, to celebrate all things pollinators.

Did you know grasshoppers are unconventional pollinators? Photo: Molly Gaines

4) Throw a pollinator party with your kids, a few of their friends, and neighbors or family. Serve yogurt parfaits with berries, granola and a drizzle of honey or sugar cookies cut into butterfly or bee shapes. Give away a favor of 2-3 honey sticks and tie with garden twine. Make seed bombs with pollinator-friendly garden seeds. I’ve done this before with kids and there are several ways to do it and kids love making them! Consider downloading free pollinator art (there are many options online) and have kids color with crayons or markers. Invite a neighborhood beekeeper to show off a frame from his or her hive and some beekeeping equipment. Have kids do pollinator chalk art on the sidewalk in front of your home.

These are just a few ideas to help kids connect the dots between pollinators and their environment. Teaching young people about the essential role pollinators play in nature and our food supply is a great step towards helping future generations care for them. And care is what will help ensure pollinator populations thrive once again.

Low-Water Vegetable Gardening in Colorado

By Felicia Brower, CSU Extension – Denver Master Gardener since 2020

Water and vegetables go hand-in-hand. The more water you give to your growing vegetables, the bigger and better tasting the harvests tend to be. As water restrictions become common and conserving water becomes more important than ever, it’s going to be crucial for gardeners in Colorado to figure out how to resourcefully use water if they want to keep growing fresh vegetables.

There are a few key ways to cut back on water in the garden. Simple things like choosing vegetables that can survive (and even thrive) using less water, maximizing the water that you do use, and preventing water loss are all ways to keep your garden looking great without relying on excess water.

Chives are always the first thing to pop up in spring without any supplemental water. Photo by Felicia Brower

When it comes to choosing what to grow in your garden, it’s important to remember that different vegetables require different amounts of water. Vine crops need less water (and actually tend to be overwatered in the home garden), while beans and sweet corn typically need more water than other types of vegetables. Many perennial herbs don’t require a lot (if any) supplemental watering to do well. My parsley, chives, sage, thyme, and lemon balm are the first things to show up every year in my garden without any extra water to help them grow.

Not only do vegetables have different water needs, but some also need more water during certain parts of their life cycles. For example, peas need more water during their pod filling period while tomatoes need more water during flowering and fruiting. 

It’s also important to choose regionally-adapted vegetables. Vegetables that are selectively bred to excel in areas where drought is common are more likely to have fewer issues when they’re watered less in the home landscape. Search online for Colorado seed companies and choose vegetable varieties that are drought tolerant. While beans can often be huge water users in the garden, varieties like Zuni Gold, Paiute Gold tepary, and Sonoran White tepary are drought-tolerant and grow well without needing huge amounts of water. In fact, during some of my drier years, they stayed greener and kept producing while their neighbors wilted and struggled. 

Zuni Gold beans, a southwest Pueblo variety, are highly adaptable and drought tolerant, making them a favorite in my home garden.
Photo by Felicia Brower.

One of the best ways to conserve water is to maximize water efficiency. If possible, install in-ground drip irrigation or use cost-effective soaker hoses so that your water reaches the roots of the plants instead of being wasted on foliage or in spots without anything growing. Water at soil level near the roots in the morning, avoiding the heat of the day, to reduce the amount of water lost to evaporation and to avoid issues like powdery mildew on the leaves of your plants. 

Here are a few additional ways to grow a low-water vegetable garden: 

• Different soil types have different water needs, so water according to your specific soil type. Loamy soil needs deep, infrequent watering instead of regular, light daily watering while sandy soils need more frequent, less deep watering because they lose water faster than clay soils. 
• If you use overhead watering, don’t water your plants on very windy days. The wind will blow your water away and prevent it from reaching the roots. 
• Before you do any watering, test your soil’s moisture level. The surface of the soil might be dry but the roots might not be.
• Your garden layout can also impact how much and often you have to water your garden. Narrow rows need more water, so grow your veggies in beds, grids, or wide rows. 
• As with any plants in your home landscape, plant vegetables with similar water needs together. If you have a mix of drought tolerant plants and high-water plants, make sure they’re kept separate so you don’t overwater or underwater, both of which cause stress and can impact the quality of your harvest.
• Use mulch (green or otherwise) to keep moisture in the soil. You won’t have to water as much if you grow intensely (close together) or use another organic mulch to slow down evaporation. 
• Grow during Colorado’s shoulder seasons to take advantage of moisture from snow and spring rains and cooler temperatures, so there’s less water loss due to heat.
• Before you plant anything, take time to amend and prep your soil. Healthy soil retains water and is full of nutrients that prevent you from overwatering to try and make your plants stronger. 

As water conservation becomes more important in the west, it’s crucial to find ways to use less, especially for things like growing food. Follow CSU’s Colorado Vegetable Guide and the “Water Conservation in the Vegetable Garden” GardenNotes chapter for advice on best low-water vegetable gardening practices. 

Starting Seeds Indoors for Your Vegetable & Flower Garden

By Molly Gaines, CSU Extension-Denver Master Gardener since 2019

I became obsessed a few years ago with growing luffa sponges (Luffa aegyptiaca). I remember my grandpa growing them in Iowa, proudly tending the massive vines with long green squash, harvesting them by the bushel, peeling and drying them. But I’ve never seen luffa seedlings in Colorado, so I found my seeds online through a specialty seed website and started them inside. Luffas’ long growing season isn’t very conducive to our Colorado climate. If sown directly into the garden, they’d never mature before the fall frost.

Reasons to Start Seeds Indoors

Plants that grow best from a seedling, versus direct sowing, are the best candidates for starting inside. Focus on plants that require a longer grow time until harvest, such as heat-loving varieties. Starting seeds indoors also allows for more variety beyond what you can find in gardening centers. It also allows for more control over the early growth stages.

Cost savings is another benefit to starting seeds inside. Once you’ve invested in some supplies, it’s more economical than buying seedlings at a nursery.

Luffas require at least a 90- to 120-day growing period, so these plants are best started indoors in Colorado. Photo by Molly Gaines

Timing & Desired Plantings

Plant seeds indoors 4-8 weeks before the last spring frost date (see Growing Plants From Seed), generally considered May 5 in Denver. Review the back of seed for time to harvest. If a tomato variety requires 90 days to harvest, start the seeds inside by early April to begin harvesting in July.

Keep in mind, not all varieties tolerate being grown inside and then transplanted. Carrots, for example, do best sown directly into the garden bed.

I mostly stick to starting seeds for heat-loving vegetables and herbs that take longer to mature — cucumbers, tomatoes, some herbs and squash. As mentioned before, I also consider what varieties I can find at CO garden centers vs. varieties available only if I start the seeds myself.

Happy, thriving seedlings. Photo by Molly Gaines

Seed-Starting Supplies & Tips for Growing

Consider these supplies and growing tips:

1. Seedling containers, pots and/or trays and clear, plastic covers. I like the plastic trays with individual cells or small compostable pots. A quick Google search will also show many DIY options. Covering trays with an elevated plastic lid during germination is very helpful. Use the lid only when your trays are not in the sun or under light to avoid overheating.
2. Lighting. I plant my seedlings near a sunny window. But an overhead light, on for 12 hours a day, is best for strong, vs. leggy, seedlings. Lighting should be adjustable, always hanging about 2-inches above the plants.
3. Seed-starting mix. Usually a blend of perlite, vermiculite and peat moss/coir vs. actual soil; it needs to be loose and fluffy. When planting, poke seeds into the mix at a 1/4-inch depth.
4. Labels. Label seedlings so you can remember what was potted where.
5. Water. Keep a cup and/or spray bottle near your seedlings for spraying during germination and watering. Seeds and seedlings must be kept damp.
6. Heat. A seedling heat mat speeds sprouting. The growing medium should stay between 70-80 degrees Fahrenheit.
7. Fan. Good airflow helps prevent disease. It also helps create stronger stems.

I like this type of seed-starting medium that expand with water. Photo by Molly Gaines

Feed and Repot

You can fertilize, as needed, once the first set of true leaves on seedlings emerge. Use a diluted solution. Mix according to the fertilizer label then dilute by 1/2 or a 1/4. Don’t overdo it. If your seedlings look healthy, fertilizer isn’t necessary.

Harden Off Before Transplanting Outside

Gradually introduce seedlings to the outdoors. “Harden off” your seedlings, taking them outside and bringing them back inside for 5-7 days, each day leaving them out longer. Place trays or pots in a shady spot. Keep them well-watered.

Speaking of transplanting outside, next time I grow luffas I’ll either start them inside sooner, or plant them outside earlier. While I had a lot of fun tending to my luffas, particularly seeing the gorgeous big yellow flowers blossom (the bees love luffa flowers!), many of the gourds didn’t fully ripen. The ones that did made fabulous holiday gifts, and I loved telling people the story behind them.

My luffas, my pride and joys! Photos by Molly Gaines

Additional Seed-Starting References and Resources:

Seed Starting webinar (2022), CSU Extension, Larimer County

Starting Seeds Indoors

Vegetable Planting Guide

Fall Blooming Saffron Crocus

Lori Williams, CSU Extension – Denver Master Gardener since 2016

Saffron Crocus flower and grass-like leaves. Photo: Lori Williams

Saffron is one of the most exotic and expensive spices in the world, prized for its complex, sweet and earthy flavor. This highly desirable seasoning comes from the red female pollen receptors or stamens of the fall blooming saffron crocus (Crocus sativus). While the plant looks like the familiar spring blooming crocus, only saffron crocus produces this coveted culinary ingredient.

Lucky for Colorado front range gardeners, saffron crocus is hardy in our zone 5 climate and once established, is drought tolerant. I added it to my garden three years ago and am really enjoying it.

Let’s take a look at the plant’s history and tips for growing and harvesting.

Saffron Through the Ages

For centuries, saffron has been used in a wide variety of ways – as a richly scented perfume ingredient, a vibrant fabric and ink dye, an aide in organ functioning, and to beat the blues – to name just a few. Reportedly, Cleopatra soaked in saffron-infused baths as she liked the luminous glow it gave her skin. Today, saffron’ s most notable use is as a flavorful seasoning in sweet and savory dishes.

Planting Tips and Growth Cycle

Saffron crocus plants develop from corms (a squat shaped bulb). Since the Denver area is on the cold edge of the plant’s hardiness range (zone 5),  plants will benefit from the sunniest location possible.

Plant six weeks before the expected first frost. Bury corms in well-draining soil, 2-3 inches deep, 3-4 inches apart with pointy end up and ‘hairy’ end down. For successful flowering, nighttime soil temperatures should be as low as 40 degrees. Corms spoil quickly so plant soon after purchasing.

Thin, grass-like leaves sprout in 4-10 weeks, followed shortly by 2-4 purplish cup-shaped blooms which last up to a month.

The foliage remains green for months while underground the ‘mother’ corm multiplies or produces ‘daughters.’

Leaves yellow and die in spring; plants will be dormant in summer. Divide bulbs every 3-5 years during the late summer dormant period.

The saffron crocus lifecycle. ( University of Vermont)

Harvesting Saffron

Timing and TLC are critical to capturing maximum flavor. This is where the labor cost of commercially grown saffron adds up. Plants are low-yield and picked by hand – producing just three stigmas per flower. It takes 4600 flowers to produce one ounce of saffron. It’s no wonder that today .03 ounce of the spice costs $24!

Some growers believe the most robust flavor comes from the morning harvest of the season’s first blooms. Imagine watchful workers jumping into action on that first morning, hand plucking dark red threads from each flower.

Saffron threads on leaf. Photo: Lori Williams

Here are harvesting tips for the home gardener:

• Allow the plant to mature for an entire life cycle before collecting the stigmas. My initial year’s growth was small and floppy, with underdeveloped stigma, so I just enjoyed the prettiness.
• Microclimates impact plant growth and saffron production. This year, my esteemed master gardener friend who gardens to the south of me completed harvesting by mid-October, mine flowered about two weeks later.
• Remove the long, crimson red stigma by hand when flowers are in bloom. Last year I harvested a few days post-bloom which resulted in orange-stained fingers and strands that went *POOF* into dust the moment they were touched. A good, but hard lesson to learn.

Saffron is amazing fresh; however, it’s more commonly used dry. To preserve it, lay the threads on paper towels and protect from light to maintain flavor. When dry, wrap threads in foil and place in an air-tight container. Ideal storage temperature is 77 degrees.

Resources and References

Saffron crocus is getting easier to find at local garden centers and there are many reputable growers online and via catalogues. This Nebraska Extension article includes a helpful list.

This video from a Tasmanian saffron farm is fun to watch.

America’s Test Kitchen offers some mouth-watering sweet and savory saffron recipes here.

The University of Vermont is home to the North American Center for Saffron Research and Development.

Saffron crocus is a lovely addition to the fall garden as well as your spice rack. I hope you’ll try growing it!

Colorado Gardening Calendar for SEPTEMBER 2022

By: Valerie Podmore, CSU Extension-Denver Master Gardener since 2020

Summer’s not done yet! by Valerie Podmore

Let’s not get downhearted at the impending end of growing season! September is one of the best months for continuing harvests, enjoying our gardens, and yes, preparing for the end of summer (sad face). Mark your calendar to get these gardening to-do’s done in your yard and garden.

Vegetable Garden

• Continue consistent watering practices. We might be cooling down, but we are still dry, so don’t let your hard work “die on the vine!”
• Plant fall vegetables! Some do really well in cooler weather and ripen quickly for harvest, such as lettuce, kale, arugula, Swiss chard, and spinach which can be direct seeded.
• Save heirloom plant seeds if you are looking to start your own plants for next season.
• Get your plant covers at the ready just in case we have a (pretty typical) cold snap or just in case temperatures dip lower than your veggies enjoy.
• Make sure to clear away any dead vegetation to prevent disease or pest proliferation.

mmmmm….the fruits of our labors. Photo by Valerie Podmore

Trees and Shrubs

• Water, water, water! Just like our vegetable gardens, our trees and shrubs need to be consistently watered. Weekly is a good schedule, but this fact sheet provides very thorough advice.
• Trim only branches or limbs which are damaged or diseased at this time.
• Be careful with fertilizing trees and shrubs. This link has good information on fertilization if there’s been particularly dry weather (when is it not?).
• While planting in fall might not be the #1 time, it’s still possible to find discounted plants and if you finish before the end of October, your tree or shrub will have some time to establish itself before the cold of winter.

Lawn Care

• Aerate this month to allow oxygen to get to the roots of your grass. This is an awesome turfgrass post for more information.
• Water deeply, giving your grass a good, long drink. Weekly for even 45 minutes is more beneficial than more often for less time.
• This great fact sheet has probably everything you need to know for keeping your lawn healthy.
• While the scourge of Japanese Beetles might be behind us, this is a prime time to apply grub-killers like grubGONE! and GrubEx to turf to help prevent them returning.

Perennial Flower Beds

• Water (I know, it’s like déjà vu!) weekly until the ground freezes to give the roots a chance to develop before winter.
• Cut back spent plants but consider leaving some stems and seed pods in place for pollinators and birds. This post from our Routt County Extension friends posits a different way of thinking about cleaning up (or not!) the season’s leftovers.
• Look at what needs filling in or doesn’t work and make plan for spring.
• Purchase fall planted bulbs – who doesn’t love plant shopping? This is the time that plant stores, catalogs or online sellers are stocking up so go crazy!

I can’t wait to shop! Photo by Pixabay

Annual Flower Beds

• Clean up annuals in containers and sanitize any pots you’ve emptied.
• Get some fall color such as chrysanthemums or pansies which overwinter quite well if mulched properly.

Other Projects

• KEEP WEEDING! That is all.
• Start prepping houseplants that have been outside to come back inside for winter. Check out this post for details.
• Finally, this is the month when Colorado Master Gardener program applications will begin! These will be posted on our main website with applications open September 1 – October 16. Do you or someone you know want to apply? Please DO!

Visit the CSU Extension Yard and Garden website (https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/yard-garden) for more gardening tips.

Looking Forward: A Lower Maintenance Garden with Native Plants, Fruit Trees, and Shrubs

By Felicia Brower, CSU Extension-Denver Master Gardener since 2020

Now that the 2022 summer season is winding down, it’s a great time to review what worked in the garden and what didn’t and to start planning for next year. (Keeping a garden journal throughout the season saves time and makes this much easier!)

Start by asking yourself the following questions:

• What grew well this season?
• What didn’t grow as well as you would have liked? Any idea why?
• Did you struggle with pests or disease?
• What do you want to plant next year?

After you have the answers to those questions, you can begin to make a plan to fix any problems that popped up or to repeat your successes next season.

As far as what grew well in my garden this year goes, I planted more localized seeds this year because seeds bred for our specific climate tend to have fewer days to maturity and produce more drought-tolerant plants than ones grown from other seeds I’ve used. They fare better in my garden and will be a staple every year moving forward.

Photo credit: Felicia Brower

That being said, my garden got off to a rough start this year thanks to pest problems, extreme heat, and watering issues. Many of the seedlings I started inside were immediately eaten after being transplanted outdoors, and it seemed like no amount of diatomaceous earth could help. I wasn’t watering enough to combat the weeks of 100° sunny weather, and the growth of a lot of my vegetables suffered because of it. I was recently able to get things under control (better late in the season than never!) and my vegetables and flowers have finally started growing the way that I had hoped they would. I’ll be spending the winter learning more about Integrated Pest Management (IPM) and effective watering techniques to make the most of water during a drought.

As I look at what I’d like to change in my garden next summer, one big one is that despite loving it, I want to spend less time doing maintenance in it. I spent much more time weeding and trying to problem solve than I would have liked, and a few adjustments could make a very big difference.

The biggest change is going to be adding more native herbaceous perennials and fruit shrubs and trees in the yard. My hope is that by making the investment to fill out those open spaces, the weeds I spent so much time pulling will be unable to take over, and I’ll end up with beautiful, lower-maintenance native flowers, shrubs, and trees.

Here are a few of the plants on my list for next year:

FLOWERS

I usually plant vegetables and annual flowers, but after seeing the perennials that I planted last year pop up this year without having to start anything inside, I’m making a big shift to focus on native flowers and herbs that come back without any effort from me.

Blanket flower. Photo credit: Canva

Having perennials show up in the spring will add much-needed greenery to the yard after a cold winter, and I look forward to the pops of color they’ll provide throughout the summer and into fall. I can’t get enough of the vibrant red and yellow petals of blanket flower (Gaillardia aristata) and plan on adding some big patches of it to my garden next year. I’ll also be looking into adding more penstemon (Penstemen spp.) to the landscape. With more than 60 native penstemons to choose from, these easy-growers range in size from a few inches to a foot or two tall with long flowering spikes.

Chocolate flower. Photo credit: Canva

Chocolate flower’s (Berlandiera lyrata) yellow daisy-like flowers have a wonderful scent and typically flower from June until frost. Goldenrod (Solidago spp.) produces tall bursts of yellow blooms later in the summer, from August until November and is known for being easy to grow and care for.

SHRUBS

Shrubs, specifically ones that produce fruit, are going to take a lot of space in my yard next year. Drought-tolerant gooseberries and currants grow especially well in our area, and their berries can be eaten fresh or used to make delicious jams and pies.

Gooseberries. Photo credit: Canva

I have a raspberry patch that I plan on expanding to different areas of the yard. These prolific growers will take up a lot of space and provide delicious snacks while I’m out harvesting and fresh berries for some new recipes I want to try. Serviceberry is cold-hardy and drought-resistant, making it a no brainer for someone looking for a low-maintenance addition to the garden. The fruit also happens to be high in vitamins and is comparable to blueberries but with a slight apple flavor.

Serviceberry. Photo credit: Canva

TREES

Trees are a big investment and a lot of planning needs to go into which trees will be planted and where. For fruit trees, I’d like to plant plums, since they’re considered very dependable for this area, and a peach tree. Peaches can be a higher risk tree because late frosts can damage blooms and prevent peaches from developing, but I think it’d be fun to have a self-fruiting dwarf variety that can still provide shade and habitat for animals even when it’s not fruiting.

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After planting all of the fruiting trees and shrubs, I’ll have an abundance of produce in my yard for years to come that I’ll be able to preserve and share with neighbors and members of my community through programs like Grow & Give. It’ll take a few years, but after everything’s established, I’ll only need to worry about planting my vegetables annually, which I also plan to scale back on…eventually. For now, my focus is on finding the plants that I want to get in the ground this fall and next spring, filling out the landscape, and learning as much as I can about how to help everything in my garden thrive.

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Watch for future ‘Looking Forward‘ posts where we’ll spotlight Master Gardeners who are applying what they’ve learned to expand, rethink, or improve their gardens.

Forcing Bulbs Indoors

By Valerie Podmore, CSU Extension-Denver Master Gardener since 2020

Photo credit: Pexels from Pixabay

With the pandemic still lingering, many of us are staying at home which can give us a feeling of needing something to prevent cabin fever, and since we are pretty much finished up with the outdoor growing season, our thoughts turn to how to make our indoor space more plant-y and flowery. Forcing bulbs indoors is a great way to have flowering plants throughout the winter months to add some joy, color, and scent to our lives.

If you are like me, you’ve grown one of the more well-known winter bulbs, such as amaryllis, but not ventured into anything further. Let’s see if we can all learn to do this together!

Photo credit: Stux from Pixabay

Forcing bulbs is essentially a way of fooling the plant into thinking it’s spring so that it will bloom much earlier than normal. Many bulbs are bred for just this type of growing, but amaryllis, crocus, hyacinth, narcissus (daffodils and paperwhites), tulips and grape hyacinth are good bulbs to use.

Remember that different bulbs will bloom at different times so if you need to, ask the supplier, or pay attention to the bulb/plant information that usually comes with the bulb. Look for bulbs which are top quality, good-sized (bigger is better!) firm and free of mold or mildew. If the bulb has a paper-like covering just leave that, as it is normal.

You will want to use clean clay, ceramic or plastic containers which range from 6 to 8 inches deep with drainage holes. Use new potting soil (not garden soil) and fill your pot or container about 1/3 full. Place the bulbs in the soil with the hairy root end in the soil and the tips pointing up.

Handle the bulbs gently to prevent damaging them, but plant the bulbs close together. Add soil carefully making sure the bulbs stay upright, leaving the tips slightly exposed. Remember to consider the planting depth for the specific type of bulb you are working with. Finally, water the soil until moistened.

Now is the time to simulate the bulbs’ being in the ground over the winter, so you will want to give the bulbs a cold treatment of between 35-38 degrees Fahrenheit for a period of 12-16 weeks. Unheated locations such as a basement, cellar, cold frame or even a fridge work great. Cover the pot with plastic that has holed poked in it if you choose to go the fridge method.

Don’t let the bulbs freeze and rely on the supplier information to tell you how long the bulbs should be chilled. It all depends on type and size. Having said that, paperwhites (a type of daffodil) are one bulb that don’t require this chilling method.

Photo credit: Pnyjs from Pixabay

Next step after you’ve been so patient, is to bring the bulb containers indoors! Find a warm location (about 60-65 degrees Fahrenheit) that receives indirect light and place them there. You should start to see shoots in about 3 to 4 weeks. Don’t forget to keep the soil moist as the bulbs start to bloom.

Once the bulbs are blooming you can move the containers to a cool location overnight to prolong flowering. Many of these forced bulbs will not be able to flower again next season due to the amount of energy it takes to produce blooms. The forced bulbs can be composted once they have finished blooming. Having said that (again!), amaryllis are a type of bulb that CAN be grown to bloom year after year.

Photo credit: Stux from Pixabay

While we may need to start the process of forcing bulbs earlier in the year than December, there’s no reason we can’t give it go now and see what happens. You can always check with local garden centers or other suppliers to see what they have left, or even use any bulbs you didn’t get planted in the ground. Have fun and enjoy the flowery reward!